A Nano Aquarium

The Progress

2010-02-28T10:04:00.002-05:00

A few shots of everything settled in:

- A.

The Fish Room

2010-02-26T10:19:00.000-05:00

Self explanatory. More details to come on this style of setup.

The 47 Rimless

2010-02-24T14:28:00.007-05:00

The 29 Gallon Biocube was recently dissembled. The contents were added into a larger more diverse system. Here are some photos (iPhone only) of what is the beginnings of a custom built 47 gallon, shallow, rimless cube. The system is a sleek shallow rimless design made with all Starphire glass dimensions are 30x30x12.

For preferable aesthetic placement and optimal drilling access the new tank had to be placed in the same location as the already existing Biocube which obviously creates an obstacle, all the livestock from the drained 29 gallon tank was stored in a clean rubbermaid bin with a heater and two Nano Koralias.

All new substrate was used and a lot of new water had to be made to fill the extra 40 gallons of volume but almost everything for the previous system was used. There was a small re-cycle in the system due to loss of a lot of beneficial bacteria in the old sand but the extra water, sump space, massive DSB and Refugium helped to keep the entire cycle under 2 weeks.

The Setup is plumbed into a 30 gallon basement sump in a room that has inevitably been dubbed the "fish room."

After all the plumbing was finished the livestock was added.

Last but not least... here are the first attempts at an aquascape... water was still a bit cloudy from new sugar sized sand but you can get the idea.

Its been two and a half weeks since this upgrade and so far so good. Corals and the paired black clowns seem happy. I had been testing for ammonia and nitrite frequently over first week and within 7 days all levels were zero and the system was producing nitrate. Small algae blooms appeared on day 3-5 but were gone quicker than they came. This quick cycle could have something to do with adding a small carbon source as I was dosing 0.3 ml of vodka daily. That dose is now up to 0.4ml daily and the effects are unbelievable. As you can imagine the SPS showed severe browning from stress during the move, this brown tinge is clearly visible in these shots as the entire system looks quite brown. Under three weeks later the SPS colors are brighter than ever before and the water looks crystal clear.

I don't recommend upgrading a tank using this "do it in a day" method if you don't have to. In this case: in order to drill into the basement and keep the tank in the living room the only option was to put it in the same place as the existing system hence the tiring all weekend affair of upgrading with a basement plumbing mission. Ideally you would set up the new system have it run and cycle for a while before beginning to add livestock.

More updates to come.

- A.

The Upgrade

2010-02-20T17:54:00.008-05:00

Huge changes. The Cube is no more.

It is now a Custom 47g Shallow Rimless.

Major updates to come around here, in the meantime here's a video of the new setup.

The Glow

2010-01-16T09:52:00.004-05:00

A few shots under actinics only.

- A.

The Frags

2010-01-15T09:25:00.004-05:00

Several SPS frags were added to the system. The large red Lobophyllia was sold to create room for smaller frags so a bit of an re-aquascape and a coralscape took place. Here's a few shots of the frags and the new FTS.

The Vortech

2010-01-13T17:32:00.016-05:00

A Eco-Tech Vortech MP10 wavemaker was recently added to the aquarium. This anticipated addition comes in an exquisite package including all the parts you need to convert your water motion setup into a lifelike ecosystem.

These little pumps cost a fair bit of change, however the reviews and user feedback is overwhelmingly positive.

Of course in a nano setup where every inch counts and more importantly every degree of heat counts, an all in one wavemaker pump that has a tiny in tank footprint and virtually no heat transfer is almost a must.

The pump took a few minutes to set up, and was up and running in no time. The pump tank mount was applied to the glass to prevent falling damage, and a provided rubber spacer was placed between the magnets to ensure no damage is done to the motor due to thin Biocube glass. The included instruction manual obviously provides a step by step and the directions are incredibly easy to follow.

After a few seconds of alignment and playing with the pump settings it was time to begin programming wave modes. Currently the pump is running in "Short Pulse Mode" which is one of several modes including "Reef Crest Random," "Lagoon Random," "Constant Speed," and "Long Pulse."

The adjustable"Short Pulse" mode was timed to generate a pulsing wavelike turbulence used to simulate the swaying motion of coastline reef. The mode uses a repetitive burst of current that, with a little tuning, can be synced with the rebounding waves to create a visible motion across the aquarium. Originally the "Reef Crest" mode was selected as an operating mode, but if your system is physically stable with short pulse you can get a little wave bouncing back and forth in your tank meaning it's not just your pump doing work as the momentum of the waves make everything sway.

The interface could not be easier with a glowing color coded LED light identifying the modes, two buttons for mode and set functions, and a knob controlling pump power and wave frequency.

The pump is capable of pushing over 1500 GPH and in the 29 gallon tank running at half power is more than enough.

Even more importantly the pump has a "feed" and "night" mode. Feed mode automatically reduces the pump power to almost zero for ten minutes while you feed then it instantly kicks back into its cycle ensuring no food gets blown into unwanted areas.

Night mode is even better, this time programmable mode prompts the pump to enter night mode which runs the pump at a constant low speed giving your corals and fish a rest when the lights are out.

All and all, it is too early to tell if the pump will greatly improve life for those living in the 29G Cube, however at first glance it's an incredible little gadget and is a must have for anyone with a little extra cash and a dedication to their aquarium.

- A.

The Candycanes

2010-01-12T08:49:00.001-05:00

Another photo.

- A.

The Black Clowns

2010-01-10T22:48:00.001-05:00

Just a photo.

- A.

The Media Rack

2010-01-08T13:49:00.022-05:00

Recently the system has been experiencing problems in the rear filtration chambers. Currently there is a unit of Chemi-pure Elite sitting on the bottom of the tank. Not only is it quite likely that not much flow is actually running through the media, rendering it's duties almost useless, but also the bag often gets sucked into the gap between the middle and return sections. This creates a jam clogging the flow and ultimately creating larger problems. Detritus gathers possibly leading to nitrates, water begins flowing up and over the dividing walls and the return pump sometimes blows air because water is not entering the last chamber fast enough. With the media at the bottom of the middle chamber it is impossible to switch out the media or clean it without disturbing the entire the refugium.

A simple DIY solution is the answer. To fix this problem a media rack will be built to create a waterfall effect when the water enters the middle chamber.

Please see Lighting the Refugium for the original fuge design as this will be an addon.

Step One: Gather Tools. Some wire cutters, Scissors, Plyers, Lots of eggcrate, a tape measure, and nylon strips are all needed.

Step Two: Measure and Cut the Eggcrate. 4 total pieces are needed to be cut. Find out the width, height and length dimensions of your middle chamber and cut the pieces accordingly. You will be cutting pieces to cover the narrow side and bottom of the rectangular space

Each cube brand and volume is different so I will not post specific measurements to avoid confusion. The goal is to create an "L" shaped rack that is slightly smaller than the space, which will sit where the bio-balls used to sit in the middle chamber.

Step Three: Strap it Together. Nylon strips were used for a quick and easy way to assemble the rack, however epoxy or marine safe glue would also work just fine. When you have the correct width and height for the bottom and vertical pieces connect them with the strips.

Your rack is beginning to take shape. Make sure your vertical eggcrate pieces are about one square skinnier than the bottom piece. Because of the lip on the backside of Nano/Bio Cubes you will need to tilt the rack to get it in.

A square "ladder portion" was added to the build in order to have the media sit higher in the rack. This also allows for stacking media and it also makes the rack stable. This ladder portion is a square with all sides equalling the width of the vertical portion.

As the second vertical piece is attached you create an "H" shape within your "L". With this step the rack is basically complete. While making sure the nylon strips are tight you can trim the tabs off and your eggcrate creation should look something like this...

The bottom of the rack should be a little less than the and length and width of your middle chamber while the height should be equal to the distance from the old false bottom t0 the top of the dividers.

Step 4: Insert the Rack and Media. Gently insert the rack into the middle chamber of your aquarium. Chances are you will have to wiggle it a bit to get past the lips and ridges that were used to hold the stock filtration in place. Hopefully you measured carefully because if you did not you will certainly find out now.

The rack should sit comfortably on the two ridges near the bottom of the chamber leaving a gap between the bottom of the tank and the bottom of the rack. (This is where the bio-ball drip tray used to sit when you bought the tank.) Once the rack is all the way in it should fit nicely in the middle chamber. Now the media is ready to be placed.

This method basically divides your middle chamber allowing chemipure, phosban, and/or carbon to be run in a bags while still leaving enough space to house cheato. As the water leaves your display it creates a tiny waterfall into the middle chamber and now that waterfall flows directly through whatever media you choose to run. Even more importantly the current created by the waterfall effect is absorbed by the media bag allowing your cheato and Fuge dwellers the calm low flow needed for refugium conditions.

Obviously reactors and mechanical filters are the more direct way to force water through a desired media, but in a small aquarium where pumps and heat are always concerns, this is a natural way to direct flow without spending much money or adding electricity into the mix.

-A.

The Colour

2010-01-04T21:29:00.005-05:00

Title is self explanatory.

- A.

The New Year

2010-01-03T01:15:00.005-05:00

Updates have been scarce over the past few months, however all is well in the system. A few photos were taken today to show the great deal of growth. Also the older pair of perc. clowns were exchanged at the LFS for the current pair of black clowns.

In a week it will be one year since this tank was just beginning its cycle. And the progress is exceptional. The Zoa garden has filled out, the SPS frags are beginning to dominate the upper portion of the rock work, and the color diversity keeps growing as more unique corals are added to this intricate aquarium.

- A.

The Iodine Dip

2010-01-02T12:43:00.000-05:00

Recently the Acan in colonies began receding rapidly in the aquarium. This is obviously an unfortunate problem, however there is a hopeful remedy.

After extensive water testing and maintenance review,

the problem was narrowed down to a probable LPS bacteria infection. After a few hours of reading, it was identified that the exposed skeletons of the Acans all had a similar pink tinge, meaning a bacterial infection was most likely the problem. When the colonies were purchased 6 months ago they were in poor condition and were nursed back to health. Perhaps the infection was dormant for this period as nothing was added to the aquarium that may have introduced a new infection. The exact origin is unclear at this time but is apparently common in LPS corals and can do rapid damage out of nowhere.

To quickly fight the infection an Iodine Dip solution was prepared. This is the second Iodine dip these corals have received in the past week and a half. The first dip garnered amazing results on the smaller frags, but the larger colonies did not bounce back 100 percent. Hopefully this second dip does the trick or the larger Acan colony may be lost.

The Process:

Step 1: Purchase Iodine solution. The prefered choice is Lugol's solution which is available at most local fish stores, however I chose to use Tincture of Iodine 2.5% which is available over the counter at almost any drug store in the first aid section.

Step 2: Gather tools/supplies. Collect, two very clean large glass dishes, the Iodine, a towel, a timer, a turkey baster, and finally 1.5 Litres of water directly from the tank (this ensures the corals will not be shocked by different water parameters when dipped). The baster is very important because it helps to clean the corals in an unobtrusive fashion.

Step 3: Mix solution. Fill the larger dish with exactly 1 Litre of Tank water, then added 20 drops of Iodine. 20 drops/Litre is the most widely accepted iodine dip ratio using 2.5% Tincture. At this time fill the second dish with tank water only, this will be used to rinse the dipped corals.

Step 4: Dip the coral. In this case three Acan frags, and two Acan colonies were dipped. Gently place the corals into the dish

fully submerging entirely in the solution. Set a timer for 20 minutes and wait. During the 20 minutes periodically rinse the corals with the baster which will blow off any bacteria, parasites, bugs, hitchhikers, etc.

Anywhere from 15 - 25 minutes is recommended for LPS corals in an Iodine dip so naturally 20 minutes is a simple middle ground. You should see a lot of debris, pods, brittle stars, and other life falling off the rock into the dip.

Step 5: Rinse the colonies/frags. After the 20 minute dip period, the corals need to be rinsed to prevent any iodine solution or dead parasites from making it back into the aquarium. Use the turkey baster one last time in the dip solution then move the corals into the second dish. Swish the corals around for about 30 seconds to a minute and then place them back into the aquarium or quarantine tank.

Only time will tell if this second dip will save the infected colonies, in this case the first dip was apparently very effective on the smaller frags as they were growing again, but the larger colonies did not show any improvement after round one. Remember that this method is only recommended for LPS and SPS corals. It is great for ridding your colonies from red acro bugs, parasites, bacterial infections, invasive nudibranchs and other unwanted pests. Good luck and hopefully you never need to do this to save a coral.

- A.

The Star

2010-01-01T00:27:00.001-05:00

Today a Red Starfish (Fromia Milleporella) was added to the system. Extra care was taken to ensure the star adapted to the water conditions accordingly. The drip method was used again for the starfish however the process was spanned over 2 hours to ensure a seamless transition.

Once the star was ready to be added it was carefully removed from the fish store bag, and released into the aquarium. I was careful to not expose the Star to any air on the way in as this can be fatal. These creatures can be very sensitive to any changes in Salinity, Oxygen, PH,

Temperature etc.

The Red Starfish didn't move at all for the first couple hours in the aquarium, but now it is moving around and seems to be doing just fine.

- A.

The Actinic Bulb

2009-12-29T13:45:00.000-05:00

An actinic light was added to the system, purely to enhance the colors of the inhabitants. It also helps get the photo-period up and running faster without having to run the 250 watt Metal Halide light 12 hours a day.

I found a cheap 24" strip light with legs that fit the side of the cube perfectly (After a bit of customization with a hack saw). The bulb is a single 65 watt PC fluorescent lamp which is perfectly fine in this instance because the 250w halide does not need any help lighting the tank.

Since the addition of this light a slew of benefits have been identified. Mainly in reducing the amount of time the metal halide light is running, the obvious perks include, a lower hydro bill, less heat in the system, less potential for unwanted algae growth, more Coraline algae growth in the low light actinic only period. Currenly the Actinic light runs 11 hours on 13 hours off and the halide lamp runs 9 hours on and 15 hours off. The refugium light is on opposite the halide to keep PH balanced and the 3 watt blue LED light stays on 24/7.

It's true the Actinic bulb did add a lot visually to the system, but all the hidden benefits of running actinics seperately from daytime lighting make this type of lighting setup almost essential to keeping any reef.

- A.

The Growth

2009-06-22T16:02:00.000-04:00

June FTS...
That is all.

- A.

The Morning

2009-05-31T18:42:00.011-04:00

Recorded over several mornings, this is a stop motion photography time lapse of the aquarium corals reacting to the 20k metal halide lights turning on. Several angles were photographed each morning until the desired shot diversity was captured.

The Evolution

2009-05-26T22:51:00.009-04:00

The system is a only a mere four months old today yet its growth and progress have been amazing over the past 16 weeks. Patience and attention to detail during these infantile stages has proved to be effective.

The following is a visual representation of the Nano's evolution during the past quarter year,

January 15th, 2oo9

Feb 15, 2009

Feb 22, 2009

March 4th, 2009

April 1st, 2009

May 24th, 2009

- A.

The Fan

2009-05-25T21:40:00.005-04:00

As the summer months get warmer and warmer, as did the water in this delicate system. Running a Nano system with a total of 5 pumps and a whopping 250 watts of light in 29 gallons, too much heat is obviously a possible issue. A high room temperature combined with the heat produced by the submersible electronics creates an environment very likely to get hot. Resulting in unhealthy inhabitants and an unstable aquarium.

Over the past week it has been too cool to run air conditioning, yet to warm to not be cautious about the rising temperature of the system. Shopping for chillers proved pointless and too pricey, and running full A/C 24/7 would just run up the power bill.

As a quick and incredibly easy fix an $8 mountable fan was attached to the wall behind the tank. Reluctantly purchased from Wal-Mart (forcing me to disregard political and moral commitments), this fan has proved to be quite possibly the best investment made for this system thus far. The fan also comes with a clip that can be screwed to the wall.

The temperature has dropped dramatically and is stable (From 85-87 degrees to a stable 77 with the lights on, and 76 in the evening. The only downside is the inevitable quick evaporation of the water. The silent fan cools the light, water surface, and back side of the tank creating an ideal cooling method that was both cost effective and energy efficient.

I recommend looking into a cheap fan option before doing anything dramatic for chilling or even losing livestock this summer.

-A.

The Big Move

2009-05-24T15:01:00.012-04:00

As May 1st came and went, as did the inevitable moving day which required also moving the Nano Aquarium. Although the new house and the tank relocation was literally down the street and around the corner, the amount of precision, patience and planning required to effectively move the tank was enormous. Moving the 29g cube proved quite flawless with the whole mission wrapping up in about 1.75 hours.

Although the steps required to get the tank and its huge amount of contents from point A to point B seemed daunting, but with the help of another reef-keeper, I was able to quickly move everything in two trips. In this time I also had to re-aquascape, place coral, and transfer all the inverts and fish. All of this which was done in a careful manner to avoid shock, and re-cycling the tank ecosystem.

The motions needed to execute the move can be categorized into 4 groups. I hope these steps will help anyone who has the unfortunate but achievable task of moving a nano size aquarium in the future.

#1. Preparation: The preparation consisted of a few simple tasks.

a) About 9 gallons of salt water (30% of the system) was prepared a couple days before the move in the same way a typical water change would be prepared. (Heat, water motion, bubbles for PH balance).

b) A location was chosen in the new house before the move was started so carrying times and the transfer required no on the fly decision making.

c) Purchase, (or in this case borrowing) of several clean buckets for transfer of water, and live-rock.

d) Purchase of large ziplock (or no-name) freezer bags to hold all the corals and fish which differ in size and shape.

e) Packing of any additives, food, supplies, tools, test kits,

etc. and anything else that can be moved before the tank and livestock itself. This saves time leaving only the bare essentials which will be moved all at once.

#2. Livestock Removal:

a) This step requires the diligent bagging of coral. By leaving the tank running the water could still circulate and filter as all 20+ species of coral were carefully removed from the system and placed in bags containing tank water.

b) The larger inverts, crabs and two clownfish were left in the tank for removal during the water and rock removal stage.

c) Lastly the cheato was removed and bagged also to avoid die-off.

#3. Water and rock Removal: With the tank now "coralless" the removal of rock and water began. The filtration and water motion was left on until now so the water was still crystal clear. These simple steps are in an attempt to preserve as much of the mature water without stirring up sediment or exposing live-rock.

a) As the water was syphoned into buckets, the live-rock was added into these buckets. This ensured the cured live-rock only leaves the water for a second or two before being fully submerged back in the bucket. This process requires careful removal to avoid disturbing the sand bed releasing semi consumed nitrates and crud into the water column. Although live-rock can survive exposed for quite some time. I chose to keep every piece submerged for the entire process keeping the bacteria, worms, pods, and coralline algae alive again in an attempt to avoid the mess of another tank cycle.

b) The trick for the next step was to first stop the syphon at about 60% to remove the fish and inverts. With the majority of the rocks and water gone it is much easier to catch the quick fish limiting the amount of induced stress.

c) As the water level approached the bottom of the tank, it was essential leave at least 1 inch of water in the tank and not touch any live-rock that was anchored in the sand bed. This keeps the water clear and anaerobic bacteria deep in the bed undisturbed further avoiding a second cycle.

#4. Relocation of Tank and Equipment: With all equipment in a milk crate, all livestock bagged and stored in containers and both the rock and water filling another several buckets, the move was about to begin. Luckily the tank and stand fit perfectly into the backseat of a VW Jetta and we were on the road.

a) With the live sand, an inch of water, and about 6lbs of liverock sitting on the tank base, the

empty 29g Biocube was a bit heavy but nothing two lifters could not handle with ease. While manually supporting the base of the tank, we quickly moved the tank, stand, equipment, livestock, and any other loose ends in two trips.

b) The aquarium was carried into the new house carefully to avoid disturbing the sand bed and base live-rock, and placed on the stand.

c) The heater, powerheads, skimmer, and fuge light were all in place and the aquarium was positioned levelly and appropriately to avoid direct sunlight and open vents, while meeting all the other aesthetic and practical criteria of home aquarium placement.

#5. The Aquascape and Re-addition of Tank Contents: At this point the coral and livestock have been in bags for about 45 minutes. To avoid over-stress, it was time to refill the tank and get the creatures back into their environment as soon as possible.

a) Instead of pouring water into the tank which would create turbulence and disturbance of the sand bed, an extremely clean small glass plate was placed on the sand bed, and water was pumped from the bucked into the tank landing smoothly on the center flat plate surface. The pump and plate are extremely effective in diffusing the water current allowing the water to fill the tank quickly without creating unwanted current and disturbance. Although it would be

much quicker to pour the water directly into the tank, this delicate approach is just another quick fix to keeping the water pure and the sand bed untampered with.

b) As the water level rose, the rocks were added back into the crystal clear tank in the desired aquascape (Which turned out almost identical to the previous scape, with minor adjustments

for more SPS additions and less wasted vertical rock surface.)

c) Heres where the preparation of several gallons of salt water comes into play. To avoid pouring the polluted bag water containing the stressed fish, coral and inverts into the tank,

fresh mixed water was added which worked out to be about a 25-30% water change. It is incredibly important to not overlook this step. If all the water that has been sitting unfiltered for about an hour with coral chemicals and ammonia was poured back into the tank it could create a big mess possibly resulting in a quick crash or damage to the tank's ecological balance and all its contents.

d) With the tank almost 100% full the pumps and skimmer were turned back on and the fish bags were acclimatized to the current water temperature. Finally the fish were released happily into the system with no signs of shock or irritation.

e) Next all coral was carefully placed in the desired locations which is quite similar to the previous setup. A Zoa and Acan garden was arranged, and a small forest of SPS frags were placed near the top of the rock structure. Although an attempt to place the coral properly was made it was more important to get everything back in the system quickly, providing an opportunity to aesthetically arrange the specimens would follow during the next days.

1 hour and 45 minutes later the tank was looking better than ever with the coral all in place and the water remained completely clear for the entire process. The halide lamp was remounted

which turned on the next morning to light a relatively undisturbed system full of open healthy corals and a seemingly undisturbed ecosystem.

Strontium, Magnesium, Calcium, and Alkalinity tests were taken immediately for a reference to readjust the parameters back to normal over the next week or two.

A week after the move the system was still incredibly stable seeing absolutely no rise in ammonia, nitrite or nitrate and even the coralline algae was completely unaffected. Some minor diatom growth was seen for about 1 week after moving day but has now disappeared completely 3 weeks later. All corals are still growing rapidly with the success of this system unrivaled to any salt water experience in my past.

Unfortunately and regretfully during the intense time sensitive process I neglected to take mny pictures of the steps along the way but I hope this article is helpful.

Sorry for the "long winded-ness" of this post but I feel the strategy and methods used to seamlessly relocate a fragile reef system are essential to any aquarist who may need to undergo a move.

The Acanthastrea Additions

2009-04-08T01:57:00.006-04:00

Here is an April FTS, and some closeups of the new corals.

Over the past couple weeks several new coral species have been added to the display. Several SPS frags have been added to the upper portions of the rockwork, a few more colorful zoa frags have been placed in the lower portion, while two beautiful colonies of Acanastrea have been placed on the sand bed.

As all parameters are in check the SPS frags are growing already and their colors have in fact become more vibrant.

The Drip

2009-04-05T22:20:00.021-04:00

The acclimation process is one that many aquarists overlook or rush. After a road-trip to shop some incredible frag tanksin Guelph (http://www.fragalot.ca) the drip in process becomes an essential step in the purchase of any marine livestock be it coral inverts, or fish.

To properly drip in the new species, a clean bucket has been elevated and placed beside the aquarium. Airline tube is attached to a valve which regulates the amount of water passing through the tube. A siphon is started through the airline tube which slowly mixes the

aquarium water with the water from the coral's previous system.

The idea is to slowly acclimate the coral to the same water conditions, and temperatures reducing stress greatly. This process is continuedfor an hour or two depending on the species while discarding water from the bucket so eventually the contents are very close to the water in the display.

There are hundreds of methods for livestock acclimation, this just happens to be the method deemed most effective and efficient. Some would argue a quarantine tank is necessary for coral addition, but due to the reputable source of coral purchase.

The Video

2009-04-03T16:43:00.008-04:00

Here is short video that has been recorded of the aquarium. (Click HQ to see an better quality version)

The 250 watt 14k bulb that had been lighting the system since its establishment has just been switched with a new 20k XM bulb and the purple and blue results are clearly visible in this video.

Finally color is arriving in a couple of the SPS frags which had turned completely brown in their previous owner's tank. This color has been coming back slowly for the past couple months, but it is really quite noticeable under the bluer light.

No major updates have been made to the system other than the addition of a few frags. In the last month all corals have shown drastic growth and progress.

The Recap

2009-03-21T11:02:00.003-04:00

The nano system is still running strong with no issues whatsoever. All of the corals are growing steadily, and the fish are healthy. The filtration system is flawless leaving crystal clear water, with literally no harmful contents. By blasting the rocks with a turkey baster every few days, the filter floss catches any buildup of debris that could store nitrate. Filter floss, the remora skimmer, a macro algae refugium, a bag of carbon, and one unit of chemipure elite, have worked together diligently to create an ideal environment for the inhabitants.

The chemipure elite will need a change soon. Although the package rates the media at 4-6 months, with this bioload it would be unwise to leave it for longer than 4 months. In the refugium the cheato has grown to fill the entire second chamber requiring frequent trimming to ensure space to grow.

Adding an auto top off systems and building a custom media rack are the next two steps that will need to be taken.

The evaporation on a topless nano with 250 watts of halide light is far to frequent, if the tank were left unattended for a couple days the water level would drop exposing the cheato. An ATO will solve this problem.

The custom media rack will fit into the middle chamber dividing it into two sections. THe first section will be a ladder type setup forcing the flow to fall down through two bags of media.

A baffle separating section one and two will direct the water back up into the refugium section allowing the water to flow back down through the cheato naturally.

Zoanthids, and mixed sps frags will be added to the system periodically for the next few months while the constant coral growth will eventually fill the reef.

Although growth and color is great with the 14k XM bulb, a bulb with a 20k temperature will be replacing the bulb in an attempt to bring even more vivid coloring to the system. With no actinic bulbs the use of a 20k light will be acceptable middle ground for coral lighting.

All in all the system is stable purely based on the diligence and patience applied in the maintenance and initial setup process. The upkeep of additives, coral feeding, and 10% weekly water changes has been with out a doubt essential to the progress of all species in the system.

The Look Pt. 2

2009-03-09T23:06:00.006-04:00

Some coral was added... some recent pictures... thanks to Ryan at Aquatic Kingdom in Mississauga for the great prices... that is all.

The Look

2009-03-07T01:22:00.015-05:00

Here are several photographs taken quite recently. They show some of the overwhelming color one can see when observing the aquarium. Parameters are now stable and significant coral growth is already apparent on all species. Specifically the SPS frags are growing at a rapid rate.

The photos are taken under a 14k XM Metal Halide Lamp with a digital SLR no other lighting supplements are present...

The Oscillaris Pair

2009-03-04T01:19:00.008-05:00

Due to the exceptionally stable conditions of the Nano system, and the need to finally shut down, and sell the 55 gallon "transferee" system, two paired Oscillaris Clownfish were recenty added to the Biocube.

The drip acclimatization method was used to delicately, and patiently prep the two fish for the switch. With Salinity and PH relatively exact in each system, and virtually no traces of Ammonia, Nitrite or Nitrate in either of the water columns, the fish adapted quickly to the new, smaller space. The Clowns indulged immediately among the wavy tentacles of the purple torch coral which resides in the center of the aquascape.

By "hosting" in the animated Torch, the Clowns offer the same gratification as if they were in an anemone, without all the dangers of housing one in such a compact system.

The fish have been in the system for three days with no sign of a small re-cycle, and no change in water parameters. The two tank-mates will be fed minimal portions every other day on a mixed diet of Omega One flake food and rinsed Mysis shrimp.

The paired Clownfish will be the only addition of fish for a indefinite period of time, as coral addition, collection, and propagation is the primary focus of this reef system.

The Moonlight

2009-03-01T16:37:00.006-05:00

Adding moonlighting to any system with a suspended HQI pendant can be a difficult issue. Although some may argue the "nightlife stimulus effect" is essential to any reef ecosystem, the actual beneficial properties of LED moonlights is very unclear to aquarists, and is heavily debated. With this in mind the choice to subtly light this Nano system throughout the night was purely based on aesthetic preference while catering to the practicality and desire of late-night marine observation.

Making a choice purely based on aesthetic preference then poses the problem of how to make such an addition to the system while keeping the equiptment placement discrete, simplistic and visually appealing.

To solve this problem a single coralife 1 watt LED moonlight was mounted directly to the hanging Metal Halide Pendant with a 125 degree bracket. The bracket was mounted to the pendant with the stock screw which was already in place holding the Halide light's framework together. The slight angle creates a diagonal beam that falls on the aquarium contents much like a beam of moonlight from a single direction in the sky.

By mounting this light to the rear of the pendant it is undetectable from the front of the system completing the requirements for a discrete equipment modification. This add-on now enables the contents of the Nano system be seen all night in a distinct blueish glow.

Regardless of whether or not these LED choices will encourage coral spawning and growth while stimulating nocturnal species, the addition of a LED moonlight is essentially a welcomed perk as the 29 Gallon Cube now has a visual pop during the late night twilight and into the early hours of the morning.

The Stability

2009-03-01T11:21:00.005-05:00

For such a young system, the aquarium is still exceptionally stable. Even after several frags and colonies of coral were added, Nitrates have remained at zero for the week with no sign of any parameter swings. There is virtually no algae growth and the water is crystal clear. If the system maintains its stability for a few more days a pair of clowns will be added which again will increase the bioload.

The Transfer

2009-02-22T19:28:00.009-05:00

The seamless transfer of corals took place over the weekend was seamless and quick. Combined with a strict acclimitization process all fourteen species of coral were added and arranged in the Nano system in under two hours. By waiting through such an extensive cycle and adding an elaborate nutrient export system, the system was finally ready to recieve livestock.

The bioload is fairly heavy with several corals dispersed throughout the rockwork, but with cheato and heavy skimming nitrates will likely not even register. Acro and Monti dominate the upper region of the liverock, while assorted Zoas, Green Star Polyps, a Brain, and a Clam populate the lower regions of the tank. There are also ten to fifteen heads of Candy Cane Coral, a colony of Christmas Favia, a small Devils Hand Leather, a Kenya Tree, and some typical blueish purple Mushrooms. 250 Watts of Metal Halide light douses the aquarium in a bright glow that shimmers off the waters surface.

As a starting point the system currently appears natural. As coral is added, the placement will be in a realist fashion in an attempt to replicate and maintain the natural aesthetic. The coral opened-up quickly in healthy fashion almost immediately after being dripped in, and is already growing after only four days.

More waiting must now take place to ensure the system stabalizes after the sudden addition of life. With such a dependance of Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and Iodine, these supplements must now be dosed regularily to create a constant. As long as things remain intact, in a week or two a pair of clowns will be added.

The Aquascape

2009-02-19T17:02:00.008-05:00

The aqua-scaping is almost complete in the cube. The decided scape has several shelves for coral, a few caves, and a upper plateau for acro. The lower "arms" of the structure are long and flat, perfect for a zoa garden and an Acan display.

The sand got pretty stirred up with the rearranging so it may take a couple days to clear the water. Several hitchhiking Zoanthids have made it into the tank with the additional rock and are already open to full effect.

The rock, sand and glass is virtually spotless as all algae, and diatoms have disappeared.

With one more water change and the halide lighting addition, the system should be ready to house an array of coral species.

The Chemi-Solution

2009-02-18T11:32:00.005-05:00

Today one full unit of Chemi-Pure Elite was added to the nano system.

This filter bag supposedly works well in marine aquariums. It "removes heavy metals, copper, phenol, ammonia, and other nitrogenous waste." Not only does Chemi-Pure Elite remove all these hazardous components, but it claims to "help in keeping pH at a consistently safe range and your water sparkling clear." The Elite version of Chemi-Pure also employs ferric oxide to also remove phosphates and silicates, perfect for fighting off unwanted algae blooms and keeping all nutrient parameters to a bare minimum.

The 14.74 oz tub of wonder media came pre-bagged and ready to use, with a short rinse as the only required step before application. This bag is rated to effectively treat 40 gallons of water for 4-6 months.

It was decided that below the eggcrate refugium floor in the middle chamber would be the best possible location to run the Chemi-Pure. This allows constant moderate flow through the bag providing the best possible water contact (without a reactor).

With a tiny bioload and Nitrate and Phosphate already at zero it may be difficult to see direct results of the media immediately, however, the back wall of the display is home to a tiny portion of green hair algae that will most likely die off with the effects of the Chemi-Pure Elite solution.

Only time will tell if this solution is in fact as good as it claims to be. Until then, based on the enormous amount of positive reviews and recommendations it is safe to say that Chemi-Pure Elite is quite possibly the best filter media solution available to anyone in this hobby.

The Nitrate Problem

2009-02-17T15:15:00.005-05:00

For about 2 weeks the tanks Nitrate level was at a standstill of 7ppm. After seeking well received consultation at Nano-Reef.com, and AquariumPros.ca the suggestion to go buy a new test kit arose. The people helping with the case were in agreeance that: With a refugium, filter floss, carbon, zeolite, r/o water, a significant amount of liverock and sand, a skimmer, and vitually no bioload, there is no way the Nitrates would stay strong for as long as they did.

So....

A new test kit was immediately purchased. After having problems with the Seachem tests the next best option was a basic Nutrafin NO3 test.

A few drops and five minutes later, the results were in and the water sample read zero ppm.

Unfortunately, a faulty kit had me pulling my hair out trying to lower the Nitrate levels. However, with the purchase of the new kit today that concern has been eliminated and the tanks progress can continue.

Moving on... with the water paramaters fully balanced the next steps are the lighting setup, aquascaping, slow addition of coral species, and finally the fish.

The Crew

2009-02-15T21:15:00.013-05:00

It has been just over four weeks since the nano system was first filled. The cycle is complete but it is still essential to take it slow, this means adding livestock at a moderate pace. A clean up crew (CUC) is the first step to getting rid of the leftover algae while adding adding waste production to the system. This slight increase in ammonia production allows the denytrifying bacteria growth to steadily incline thus keeping the system in check.

After a quick trip to the local fish store and a patient "drip in" process, the crew was in place. Thanks to Garden City Reptile and Aquaria (St. Catharines, ON), there are now seven blue legged hermit crabs, several Astreas and Nassarius Snails, an Emerald Crab and a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp residing in the aquarium.

Most would argue that the snails are the most important aspect of a solid CUC, but the Hermits and the Emerald are definitely more interesting to watch. These choices are purely subjective, but if one is to put in such an amazing amount of effort to house a aesthetically and technically sophisticated aquarium, then logical decisions based on preference and opinion must sometimes be made.

For now, this small but diligent CUC will do the dirty work. This early in the cube's life a sudden bioload increase any bigger may throw the system out of balance. In a week or two if things are still stable the Halide will turn on and the coral will arrive shortly thereafter.
In the meantime this crew has some work to do.

The Transferee

2009-02-12T13:49:00.015-05:00

As for what will be occupying the nano, it seems appropriate to quickly profile the system that will soon be "cubed".

This aquarium is a 55 gallon mixed reef and was set up in August of 2006. It's 25 gallon sump houses a deep sand bed, refugium and an Aqua C Remora Pro with a mag 6 pump. A custom split return line running on a mag 7 helps keep the surface oxygenated and helps with flow. It has 65 lbs. of Figi and Tonga liverock, and 15 lbs. of base rock. It is lit by a 15k 250w Metal Halide w/Icecap Ballast.

The livestock includes 3 blue Cromis, a Pair of Ocellaris Clowns, and a Red Fairy Wrasse. As for inverts the tank is home to a Cleaner Shrimp, 6 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs, 10 or so assorted Snails, and tons of hitchikers. There is a broad range of corals in this system all of which are growing and fragging rapidly. These include: A few Mixed Acro Frags, a Monti Cap, two colonies of Cabbage Leather, a Yellow Tonga Leather, some Trumpet Coral, assorted Zoas, assorted Mushrooms, A Torch Coral, Blue Candy Cane, an Orange Ricordia, two Devils Hand Leather colonies, an Open Brain, some Christmas Favia, Blue Pulsing Xenia, Pink Pulsing Xenia, Green Star Polyps, and a Kenya Tree.

The tank is mature and thriving. Since its initial setup Carbon and Zeolite have been running in the overflow. And the corals have been feeding regularily on rinsed Mysis Shrimp and Polyp Labs "Reef Roids."

Obviously all of its contents will not fit in the significantly smaller 29 Gallon Biocube and the livestock will be selected subjectively when transfered.

This aquarium is a great setup and a perfect size for any moderate reef keeper. However, due to space limitations I have chosen to run a Nano style aquarium which hopefully will bring an equal amount of success.

In comparison both tanks have their pros and cons, however the significantly larger amount of water in the 80 gallon system made for a somewhat flexible routine. A 29 gallon nano aquarium will require a great deal more attention to detail and precision with measurements and additives.

Lighting the Refugium

2009-02-11T10:57:00.015-05:00

Lighting a refugium in the deep opaque center chamber of a 29 gallon Biocube could prove to be somewhat of a difficult task. A typical overhead fluorescent would not reach the deepest parts of the fuge, nor would it look aesthetically pleasing. A submersible light may overheat the water creating temperature problems and takes up valuable space in the small rear compartments. To solve this problem aquarists choose many varied methods that have similar effects. For this nano a simple discreet approach was chosen.

This fuge light setup is cost effective and requires little to no major work. However it does require permanently scraping off the black paint on the Biocube's rear wall, and a trip to the local hardware store.

ANYWAYS...

How It's Done:

The second largest chamber of the cube was chosen to house the refugium. Based on size, practicality, and functionality this chamber seemed like the best choice. Before worrying about any lighting a custom cut piece of eggcrate was added near the bottom of the second chamber (where the drip floor used to be). This eggcrate allows unhindered water flow while still keeping the cheato from being sucked up or pumped into the display. The eggcrate was cut precisely to the dimensions of 3.5 inches x 9 inches. At this size the eggrate could fit perfectly into the center chamber resting on the ridge provided with the cube's original design.

The next step was to find the parts to house the light as well as find an ideal candidate for the light itself. A trip to the local hardware store warranted the purchase of a Xenon Puck Light, a single plastic electrical gang box, and some industrial Velcro (all for under 25$ CAN). When combined these three integral parts of the fuge lighting system provided an ideal setup. The puck light, which came with a standard extension cord and on/off switch fit perfectly into the gang box with the cord coming neatly out the bottom ready to plug into any outlet. The Velcro was then applied easily on the top and bottom of the box. Due to the industrial strength of the Velcro, it was applied then instantly almost impossible to move.

The next step was to scrape a rectangular window into the black paint on the Biocube. The rear wall of this Biocube aquarium is solid glass with a thin black coating to hide the interior workings of the rear chambers. With an exact-o-knife and a razor blade this thin layer of paint can be easily removed revealing a transparent sheet of glass. This window was measured and scaled to the gang box dimensions to prevent any possible light spilling out. Velcro strips were then applied to the top and bottom of this window. Naturally the next step was to apply the light box onto the back of the tank and plug it in. It fit almost perfectly with enough space between the wall and the light box to remove and re-apply the unit (important for changing bulbs).

The setup works flawlessly and unless one looks behind the tank it is virtually impossible to notice. The subtle light penetrates the cheato at the center of the chamber allowing for unidirectional growth. When placed on a timer with an opposite schedule to the main display light this little fuge lamp not only helps regulate temperature, but it helps to avoid nighttime PH swings. This cheap alternative allows the application of a incredibly effective means of nutrient export (the use of macro algae) at a minimal amount of work.

In the long run this step will most likely become one of the most effective choices made when preforming the initial modifications to this 29g system.

The Cycle

2009-02-10T01:27:00.001-05:00

The initial setup of the 29G Nano is almost finished.

The system has almost completed its cycle (going on 3.5 weeks). There's about 3 inches of live sand and 30 lbs of liverock ( about 15 more pounds will be added when the livestock is added). A frozen raw shrimp was added immediately after the tank was filled. As the shrimp decomposed the ammonia helped to jump-start the cycle process. Currently the diatom bloom has disappeared and the green hair algae is almost totally gone. Ammonia reading is 0 ppm, Nitrite at 0 ppm, and Nitrate is about 7ppm. (The Nitrate has dropped from 50ppm to 7ppm in two or three days.)

The tank is starting to grow coraline algae again on the rock, and tons of copepods can be seen crawling all over the glass, cheato and sand.

For the cycle period a typical Fluorescent light has been used on a 12/12 timer but will be switched to a 250w 20K DE Metal Halide pendant w/Icecap ballast as soon as the water is ready to add corals. It is only possible to use this type of pendant because the stock top on the tank has been scrapped for an open lid concept design.

A Nano Koralia powerhead is pushing current in one corner while a Hydor Flo has been installed on the return which is powered the stock return pump that comes with a biocube. (Soon to be substituted with a maxijet 1200)

An eggcrate divider has been installed about 2 inches above the bottom of the middle chamber. This divider allowed a refugium to be added in the entire middle chamber, this refugium is currently filled with macro algae (specifically cheato). To light this fuge the black paint has been scraped off the back glass creating a window directly into the center of the proposed refugium. A typical plastic electrical gang box containing a Xenon Puck light is attached with industrial velcro to the backside of the cube which perfectly and discretely lights the fuge. (example http://www.pegasusassociates.com/XenonPuckLights.html)

Bags of carbon and zeolite are sitting where the stock Biocube sponge used to be (between chamber 2 and 3). Filter floss is straining all of the water that enters the first chamber protecting the carbon, and cheato from gathering debris. A water heater has also been added and occupys the third chamber.

An Aqua C Remora Protien skimmer powered by a Maxi 1200 hangs on the back right side of the tank. The pump is submersed in chamber one between the two intake grates, and the skimmer's return is pouring directly into the display. (Micro Bubbles have mostly disappeared as the skimmer is breaking in.)

The Carbon, Zeolite, Skimmer, and Cheato were added after the Nitrates Spiked and the other trace elements were gone. The delay allowed ammonia to build rapidly without a means of nutrient removal.

Constant Calcium and Alkalinity supplements have resulted in a stable 450 for Calcium while Alk is about 12dkh, furthermore Salinity is maintained at 1.025.

ANYWAYS...

Looks like the system is almost stable and ready to undertake some new inhabitants.

For the record the aquascaping is nowhere near finished as the liverock has literally just been dropped in a pile at the centre.

Welcome

2009-01-12T23:52:00.006-05:00

This blog will be dedicated to following my purchase, assembly and upkeep of a 29g BioCube marine reef ecosystem.
I have been engaged in the salt water reef-keeping hobby for a few years now and I have decided to undertake the perhaps difficult task of creating a mixed SPS and Soft Coral Reef nano tank.
I hope to record the delicate progress while modifying the aquarium, aqua-scaping, adding coral and livestock, and finally observing the system as it begins to flourish.

This blog will not only help to analyze the results of the work, but it may also be source for information encouraging and helping others who wish to take the leap to marine aquaria and salt water reef-keeping.