1.03.2010

The New Year


Updates have been scarce over the past few months, however all is well in the system. A few photos were taken today to show the great deal of growth. Also the older pair of perc. clowns were exchanged at the LFS for the current pair of black clowns.

In a week it will be one year since this tank was just beginning its cycle. And the progress is exceptional. The Zoa garden has filled out, the SPS frags are beginning to dominate the upper portion of the rock work, and the color diversity keeps growing as more unique corals are added to this intricate aquarium.








- A.

1.02.2010

The Iodine Dip


Recently the Acan in colonies began receding rapidly in the aquarium. This is obviously an unfortunate problem, however there is a hopeful remedy.

After extensive water testing and maintenance review,
the problem was narrowed down to a probable LPS bacteria infection. After a few hours of reading, it was identified that the exposed skeletons of the Acans all had a similar pink tinge, meaning a bacterial infection was most likely the problem. When the colonies were purchased 6 months ago they were in poor condition and were nursed back to health. Perhaps the infection was dormant for this period as nothing was added to the aquarium that may have introduced a new infection. The exact origin is unclear at this time but is apparently common in LPS corals and can do rapid damage out of nowhere.

To quickly fight the infection an Iodine Dip solution was prepared. This is the second Iodine dip these corals have received in the past week and a half. The first dip garnered amazing results on the smaller frags, but the larger colonies did not bounce back 100 percent. Hopefully this second dip does the trick or the larger Acan colony may be lost.

The Process:

Step 1: Purchase Iodine solution. The prefered choice is Lugol's solution which is available at most local fish stores, however I chose to use Tincture of Iodine 2.5% which is available over the counter at almost any drug store in the first aid section.

Step 2: Gather tools/supplies. Collect, two very clean large glass dishes, the Iodine, a towel, a timer, a turkey baster, and finally 1.5 Litres of water directly from the tank (this ensures the corals will not be shocked by different water parameters when dipped). The baster is very important because it helps to clean the corals in an unobtrusive fashion.


Step 3: Mix solution. Fill the larger dish with exactly 1 Litre of Tank water, then added 20 drops of Iodine. 20 drops/Litre is the most widely accepted iodine dip ratio using 2.5% Tincture. At this time fill the second dish with tank water only, this will be used to rinse the dipped corals.

Step 4: Dip the coral. In this case three Acan frags, and two Acan colonies were dipped. Gently place the corals into the dish
fully submerging entirely in the solution. Set a timer for 20 minutes and wait. During the 20 minutes periodically rinse the corals with the baster which will blow off any bacteria, parasites, bugs, hitchhikers, etc.

Anywhere from 15 - 25 minutes is recommended for LPS corals in an Iodine dip so naturally 20 minutes is a simple middle ground. You should see a lot of debris, pods, brittle stars, and other life falling off the rock into the dip.

Step 5: Rinse the colonies/frags. After the 20 minute dip period, the corals need to be rinsed to prevent any iodine solution or dead parasites from making it back into the aquarium. Use the turkey baster one last time in the dip solution then move the corals into the second dish. Swish the corals around for about 30 seconds to a minute and then place them back into the aquarium or quarantine tank.


Only time will tell if this second dip will save the infected colonies, in this case the first dip was apparently very effective on the smaller frags as they were growing again, but the larger colonies did not show any improvement after round one. Remember that this method is only recommended for LPS and SPS corals. It is great for ridding your colonies from red acro bugs, parasites, bacterial infections, invasive nudibranchs and other unwanted pests. Good luck and hopefully you never need to do this to save a coral.

- A.

1.01.2010

The Star


Today a Red Starfish (Fromia Milleporella) was added to the system. Extra care was taken to ensure the star adapted to the water conditions accordingly. The drip method was used again for the starfish however the process was spanned over 2 hours to ensure a seamless transition.

Once the star was ready to be added it was carefully removed from the fish store bag, and released into the aquarium. I was careful to not expose the Star to any air on the way in as this can be fatal. These creatures can be very sensitive to any changes in Salinity, Oxygen, PH,
Temperature etc.

The Red Starfish didn't move at all for the first couple hours in the aquarium, but now it is moving around and seems to be doing just fine.

- A.

12.29.2009

The Actinic Bulb


An actinic light was added to the system, purely to enhance the colors of the inhabitants. It also helps get the photo-period up and running faster without having to run the 250 watt Metal Halide light 12 hours a day.

I found a cheap 24" strip light with legs that fit the side of the cube perfectly (After a bit of customization with a hack saw). The bulb is a single 65 watt PC fluorescent lamp which is perfectly fine in this instance because the 250w halide does not need any help lighting the tank.

Since the addition of this light a slew of benefits have been identified. Mainly in reducing the amount of time the metal halide light is running, the obvious perks include, a lower hydro bill, less heat in the system, less potential for unwanted algae growth, more Coraline algae growth in the low light actinic only period. Currenly the Actinic light runs 11 hours on 13 hours off and the halide lamp runs 9 hours on and 15 hours off. The refugium light is on opposite the halide to keep PH balanced and the 3 watt blue LED light stays on 24/7.

It's true the Actinic bulb did add a lot visually to the system, but all the hidden benefits of running actinics seperately from daytime lighting make this type of lighting setup almost essential to keeping any reef.


- A.

6.22.2009

The Growth


June FTS...
That is all.

- A.

5.31.2009

The Morning

Recorded over several mornings, this is a stop motion photography time lapse of the aquarium corals reacting to the 20k metal halide lights turning on. Several angles were photographed each morning until the desired shot diversity was captured.



5.26.2009

The Evolution



The system is a only a mere four months old today yet its growth and progress have been amazing over the past 16 weeks. Patience and attention to detail during these infantile stages has proved to be effective.

The following is a visual representation of the Nano's evolution during the past quarter year,


January 15th, 2oo9

Feb 15, 2009

Feb 22, 2009

March 4th, 2009

April 1st, 2009

May 24th, 2009

- A.